The News

Jeff Gordiner On What We’ll Lose When Independent Restaurants Don’t Come Back

“We’re talking about 500,000 or so restaurants that employ 11 million people, according to the foundation. Not coming back, or viewing a comeback as a long shot. Think about that… If regional food scenes, like regional music scenes, hint that alternative ways of thinking have gotten a foothold somewhere, why would an anti-environment, pro-pollution, anti-pluralism, pro-monoculture White House see any advantage in incentivizing that?”
Jeff Gordinier On What We’ll Lose When Independent Restaurants Don’t Come Back

“If it weren’t so galling, I’d be tickled by Thomas Keller’s pablum, as if there is anything productive to be gained from collaborating with this regime of robber barons. But it is so galling. If we ever needed concrete evidence that the fine-dining world we lionize is fundamentally irrelevant to the true joys and business of American eating, this Potemkin panel is it. Charged with saving American restaurants, this seemingly unlikely alliance of Burgundy and Big Macs mints a truth that our culinary mythology strains to elide: The fast-food industry and the fine-dining world are two sides of the same golden coin. One exudes wealth through luxurious trappings for the elite, built on the backs of minimum-wage laborers deemed unworthy to be seen or heard. The other creates wealth through populist marketing for a slightly broader spectrum of elite stockholders, built on the backs of minimum-wage laborers deemed unworthy of the profits they produce.”

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